Expert

DIRECT HAIR COLORING

The use of hair dyes is manifold: there are those who want to revive their reflexes, those seeking a radical change and most of the times the need arises from the desire to hide the physiological whitening of the stem.

But it is not to blame: the search for eternal youth also passes through the color of one’s hair and this makes us feel more attractive, younger and more accepted by a society that prevents us from growing old.

The dye market has progressed over the years due to the technological processes that lead to increasingly pure colors and to the toxicological aspect.

It is not by chance where possible that the irritating impact of certain colors is reduced with the addition of soothing and protective substances, or instructions are given in the instructions and precautions often accompanying this type of product with the supply of disposable gloves and barrier creams to ensure, also for home use, maximum safety.

Where it is not possible to intervene with measures external or internal to the product, the Scientific Committee for Consumer Health will take care to promote the banning of the most dangerous dyes that are included in Annex II of the Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 (note in the Annex II all the substances that cannot be added to cosmetic formulations are listed.

There are three types of hair dyes on the market that differ in their ability to stay: temporary, semi-permanent and permanent dyes.

TEMPORARY HAIR COLOR

Today we talk about temporary dyes that are often used in shampoos and/or conditioners and have an effect, as the word itself says, temporary. They last a few washes and can be easily recognized because they color the product unequivocally.

They contain direct and ready to use colors. They are large molecules that cannot penetrate the hair’s cortex but are fixed to the surface by infiltrating porosities through weak chemical bonds.

Also, the condition of the hair is fundamental for the result because the color enters more easily in the damaged and therefore more porous areas (usually the tips).

The residence time usually varies between 5 and 15 minutes, but beware of rinsing: the excess color is released immediately by coloring the shower tray or the sink at home!

The pH of the product, in theory, does not affect the color by itself but has an indirect influence on the color rendering: at low pH, there is a balm effect but at the same time the cuticle remains closed and consequently, there is less penetration. I, therefore, recommend the use of heat sources (helmet) for acid pH preparations to increase yield.

The alkaline environment, on the contrary, favors the penetration because it facilitates the opening of the scales making the hair more porous, but it can leave you the hair rough and difficult to comb.

Finally, let’s summarize the advantages of this temporary coloring:

  • easy to use. They are ready to use, they do not need to be mixed with the oxidizing part (as is the case for permanent oxidation dyes)
  • they do not stink because they do not contain ammonia
  • short
  • safe laying times. Their poor ability to penetrate does not affect the internal structure of the hair.

The last aspect that can be considered is an advantage and a disadvantage is that the color imparted will last you 2-3 washes to disappear completely, so go ahead with your imagination!

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